Avid followers of the French culinary scene will no doubt have heard of the suicide of French chef Bernard Loiseau two years ago. The book The Perfectionist: Life & Death in Haute Cuisine is a biography of this celebrated chef, giving us an insight into the events that led to this tragedy.
Written by Loiseau's close friend and veteran journalist, Rudolph Chelminski, the book is a fitting tribute to a man who was so obsessed with achieving perfection in his craft.
However, one cannot speak of Loiseau without also mentioning the other great French cookery maestros and wizards from whom he had learnt his craft from. Chelminski writes of how cookery masters like Fernand Point, the Troisgos brothers and Paul Bocuse influenced Loiseau. Vivid descriptions of French food and its preparation are a constant throughout the book as Chelminski describes each chef's speciality. You can almost see the dish being prepared right in front of you and after that sitting right under your nose.
Anecdotes from many of Loiseau's family, close friends and acquaintances add depth to the caricature of his character, allowing readers to understand the man behind his cheery facade.
Readers are also given a glimpse of the intense competition in the French culinary scene and the often symbiotic relationship between the media and restaurants. Loiseau often courted the press to promote his restaurant the La Cote d'Or in the small town of Saulieu. In a way, he had to ensure the survival of his restaurant as it was tucked away in a small provincial town.
While playing up Bernard's strengths as a man who was warm and generous to all around him, and one who was ambitious, the book also leads us to know that Bernard was, in actual fact, a highly insecure person. He needed to be reassured of his ability all the time. We soon learn that this insecurity stemmed from a medical condition called Bipolar Disorder, also known as manic-depressive disorder.
Eventually, it is this condition, went unrecognised, that led to his death after his restaurant was demoted by two points in the GaultMillau 2003 food guide. Even the retention of his three stars in the revered Michelin guide wasn't enough. A demotion to him meant his failure as a person as his restaurant was everything to him. Unable to face the situation, he shot himself in the head, leaving behind a wife, three children and 65 staff who were thoroughly devoted to him and La Cote d'Or.
This is a recommended read for all, especially foodies. It makes for an interesting read with its thorough research on the French culinary scene. Chelminski's writing is clear and succint, and his descriptions of food are an absolute delight to read. But most of all, it is a book written by a person who obviously knew the man and this gives it some degree of poignancy.
*This book is available for loan from the Singapore National Library.
Posted by DSD at August 24, 2005 9:18 AMsounds like an interesting biography! i'd like to read it too!
Posted by: crystallime at August 24, 2005 11:16 AM