Dimsumdolly

the different morsels of the life of a foodie…

May 17, 2012
by DSD
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Ap Lei Chau 鴨脷洲

Pictures from a coastal trek around Ap Lei Chau (鴨脷洲), also known as Aberdeen Island. It is located southwest of Hong Kong island, next to Aberdeen Harbour and Aberdeen Channel. Near where we trekked are the expensive fashion labels’ outlets which sell designer labels at discounted prices. 

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Coordinating everyone’s star jumps wasn’t an easy feat!

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Navigating our way without getting wet

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Along the way you’ll see caves like this

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Lying down for a breather

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Some people had constructed these wooden planks for poeple to walk on without getting their feet wet.

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Ocean Park is just across the bay

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Coastline trekking is mainly about going round the side rather than up.

May 15, 2012
by DSD
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What a Request Reveals

On Tuesday 8 May, the Oxfam Trailwalker Hong Kong lottery was open for registration for the 100-km charity race that takes place on 16 Nov 2012. As there are many people who want to get a spot to take part in this event, each person is allowed to submit a form to get a spot for their team. To increase the chances of your team in getting a spot, each of the four team members will usually send in a form with their name and three other dummy names. Why so? Because each person’s name can only appear in the ballot once. The main thing is that if you get a spot, you can change the names of your team members to the actual people who will be taking part. Hence dummy names are there just to make numbers.

The Oxfam Trailwalker race is something I hope to take part in this year and so I have to try my luck in applying for a spot. For the dummy names, I had to submit three other people’s names and personal particulars such as date of birth, ID number, address, telephone and email address. So I thought, OK, let me ask the three Hong Kong ladies I hike the most often with, one of whom was my travel companion in Vietnam. I sent them a Facebook message asking them if they could help, but got no response for two days. On the third day, Lady 1, my travel companion, sent a Facebook message saying that she had sent her detailst to me by email. Shortly after that then I got a response from Lady 2, but it was to say sorry that she wasn’t comfortable revealing those details and couldn’t help. Lady 3 has completely ignored my message altogether.  

Frankly, I had expected Lady 3 not to help because she’s SO secretive (she’s the know-yet-don’t-know person I had written about before), but I thought I’d just try my luck. I think Lady 2 was planning to ignore my message but seeing that Lady 1 had sent a message, she probably decided that it was more polite to send a message to at least say no. I mean, that’s the very least you can do, i.e. give someone an answer and not ignore someone’s message. I think that’s simply rude. 

I then asked another Singaporean hiking friend, a guy in his early 40s. I got the same response – not comfortable with revealing these details. To be honest, while I can respect their decision, I can’t say I understand it. It’s a very simple request that really isn’t asking for any more details than what you’d fill in on many forms that aren’t highly confidential or private. And this is for a legitimate cause! Perhaps they are just not comfortable with friends knowing their details (but come on, I know how old that guy is and where he lives). His actions just make me think he is what we’d call in Singapore <i>kiasi</i> (scared of getting into trouble) and has no balls whatsoever. A mutual friend of ours said it’s because this guy is the quintessential product of the Singapore civil service. Bleh.

A very simple request I made of four friends last week certainly revealed a lot to me.  I know I have to respect that everyone is different with what they are comfortable in revealing, but frankly, I’m disappointed in them nonetheless. This is probably because I’m measuring people against what I would do. If someone had asked the same of me, I’d have given my details straight away for the simple fact that it’s a simple favour – or so I thought - to do for a friend. The episode has left a slightly bitter taste in my mouth; I don’t understand why people have to be so guarded.  I don’t like people like that – they are not real. Or is it just me being too naive and open with people? I guess the episode has shown me where these people really stand as friends.

May 11, 2012
by DSD
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Sapa

From Halong Bay, we moved on to Sapa, a mountain town near to the Chinese border. It’s a long way getting to Sapa – a seven-hour overnight train ride from Hanoi plus an hour’s bus ride – but I think it’s worth going there for a reprieve from Hanoi. Travel light as the sleeper cabins are tiny and won’t have space for you to store huge ass backpacks or luggage.

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The low clouds, rolling green hills and padi fields in Sapa

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Women from the minority tribes mill around the streets and try to chat up tourists in a bid to get them to buy their handicraft. Be prepared to be asked these two questions all the time, “Where are you from? What’s your name?” After awhile, my friend and I got tired of answering the same question all the time and decided to ignore the questions altogether. Yes, it was somewhat rude, but really, it gets annoying after awhile.

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We were told by our guide that boys have to help out with chores like the herding of buffalo once they reach the age of about four or five.

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Ethnic wear for sale

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We saw many children milling around instead of attending school, which just perpetuates the poverty cycle.

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A lovely natural playground for the children

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The waterfall at Cat Cat village

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This dog’s owners must have a warped sense of humour

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An aerial view of Sapa town – it almost looks like a European village

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As we had time to spare before the scheduled leaving time on our last day, we got our guide to take us to some waterfalls nearby for an extra USD20 each. As it had just rained the night before, the Love Waterfall was especially lovely! My friend and I love waterfalls and we were delighted to see the waterfall.

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The second waterfall we were brought to was called Silver Waterfall, which was even nicer with its four split levels.

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At Sapa we decided to indulge ourselves and stayed at the Victoria hotel which is the most expensive hotel there. We paid about USD150 per night for the room.

I wished we had stayed longer in Sapa so we could have time to hike up Mount Fansipan which is the highest point in Vietnam at 3143m. But we only stayed two nights in the hotel and the other two nights were spent on the train. If I had known Halong Bay would be so boring, I’d would have stayed one less night in there and an extra night in Sapa instead.

May 9, 2012
by DSD
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Ha Long Bay

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Frankly I was underwhelmed by Ha Long Bay. Yes, being a UNESCO World Heritage Site it is pretty lovely with its close to 2,000 limestone islets in various shapes and sizes. But having become a mass tourist attraction, the bay now suffers from the effects of it. The waters have a permanent oil slick and there’s rubbish and dirt floating around – I so would NOT jump in for a swim. The people who did jump in, I think are nuts.

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A bunch of friends who had gone to Ha Long Bay in December told N and I that it was worth spending two nights there. We were to find out that was so NOT the case. The both of us were bored out of our wits being stuck on the boat for two days. Not to mention the fact that the food was crap. The only so-called fun thing was the kayaking but that could be done during a day trip or with just one night’s stay. I think why those friends recommended two days was because they are the kind who can relax and do absolutely nothing. N and I however are not like that. Us two girls need action action action. So my advice is a night’s stay is more than enough. Given me, I’d just do a day trip as I was rather underwhelemed by those islets. The four-hour bus ride to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi is not the most comfortable either.

Pictured above is a cultured pearl farm we were brought to. Boring place. All they really want you to do is buy the pearl jewellery.

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During our kayaking session on the second day, we paddled to a floating village and we got out of our kayaks to have a look. We parked next to a school and the teachers there were very friendly even though none of them spoke any English.

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Children from the floating village having lessons. The world the tourists who come and visit live in is so different from that of those of the villagers’. Just shows you there are so many ways to live life.

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Sunset at Ha Long Bay

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Opening of the Hung Sung Sot cave, which I must say was pretty impressive because of its size – the ceiling apparently goes up to about 30m in height. There are many stalagtites and stalagmites in the cave. But I’m also not a huge of dark, musky caves either so I can’t say this was my favourite spot in Vietnam.

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View from the cave opening

May 7, 2012
by DSD
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La Badiane

Sorry for the silence, I’ve been very lazy with my writing. It’s like exercise, once you stop doing it, your body becomes lazy and it’s so hard to pick up again. Anyway, here’s a bit more on my trip to Vietnam. If you’re looking for some good French food in Hanoi, La Badiane is a place I’d definitely recommend. My friend and I went for lunch and we opted for the USD15.50 three-course menu. If you up for more posh ingredients in your food, you can go for the three-course Gastronomique menu (USD41) that’s available during lunch and dinner. The Degustation menu is only available for dinner.  

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There’s outdoor seating for the smokers and those who prefer dining alfresco. There’s a breezy, tropical, resort-like feel with the wicker chairs.

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If you, like us, cannot tolerate the cigarette smoke from other diners, head indoors.

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Some lime juice to quench our thirst after our 30-minute walk there from our hotel amidst crazy traffic.

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I had the Duck French rillettes & Tartar Sauce as a starter. Rillettes is similar to a paté. The baguette was nicely toasted and the rillettes was so smooth and flavourful. Delightfully sinful stuff.

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My friend had the Tomato Tartare with Feta Cheese and Basil Perfume. The ingredients were fresh and the dish tasty, but it didn’t excite as much as mine did.

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For my main course, I chose the Pork Ribs Caramalised in Ginger and Sesame Sauce and Mashed Potato. If you don’t like sweet stuff, then you probably won’t like this dish. But because I do, I loved this dish. The meat was so tender and it fell off the bone so easily. It had absorbed all the flavours of the seasonings and the mashed potato was so smooth and buttery. I’m not usually into mashed potato and will only eat it when it’s done well – I licked every bit off the plate.

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My friend had the Duck Confit in Arabic Spices. This was an interesting take on the traditional duck confit and it was really good. The mashed potato was as good as mine but this dish had more layers in its flavouring because of the mix of spices used in the dish. I can’t quite recall now what were the spices I tasted though, sorry!

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For dessert, we both had the Stewed Apple with Cinnamon and Caramalised Hazelnuts. Well, it’s cheap stuff really, but at least the humble ingredients were dressed up to look good. I can’t say I’m a huge fan of apple stew since it feels like I’m eating baby food.

Service was also good and this place is a thumbs-up for me.

10 Nam Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Tel: +84 (4) 39 42 45 09

April 23, 2012
by DSD
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Tamarind Cafe

We were getting a little tired of eating Vietnamese food day in day out, so we decided to try  Tamarind Cafe based on the Lonely Planet recommendation and that of the hotel.

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The cafe is located along a stretch of road that’s filled with restaurants but this is probably the only vegetarian place around. Tamarind Cafe serves both vegetarian Vietnamese and Western cuisine.

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The cheese and tofu croquettes were deliciously crunchy on the outside and flavoursome on the inside. We then had the spinach quiche that came with a side salad. This we didn’t quite like as the flaky pastry was a bit too soggy for my liking. I prefer quiche with a shortcrust pastry. The cold tofu came with a topping that had tomato, onions and dill in it was a refreshing and light appetiser. I also had a glass of avocado juice to accompany my meal.

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For dessert, we had the mango pancake (top) and the mixed fruit crumble with a scoop of ice cream of your choice(bottom). The former was supposed to come with coconut milk poured over it, but I told them to lay it off as I hate coconut milk. The crumble wasn’t exactly what we had in mind as we had expected to have more crumble. So dessert wasn’t great for us, but maybe it’s because we chose the wrong items on the menu.

We glimpsed the other dishes that were going to the other tables like vegetarian Pho, Vietnamese spring rolls, fried mushrooms etc and all the food looked delicious too. If I were living in Hanoi, I think this would be a place I would be frequenting. Service was also good and the staff speak English well, most likely because of their mostly expat clientele and the tourists around the area.

8o Mã Mây 
Hanoi
www.tamarind-cafe.com

April 20, 2012
by DSD
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Bún Chả Hàng Mành

I have to admit this – N and I weren’t exactly the most adventurous eaters as far as trying to go really local by sitting down on low plastic stools by the road and savouring the street fare. We just didn’t feel comfortable about the idea of it and honestly, I didn’t feel like breathing in all the exhaust fumes from the cars and motorcycles on the road as I tucked into my food. Bún Chả Hàng Mành was the only place we ate at that was frequented by locals. Even then, this place also had many patrons who were tourists, thanks to mention of it in various guidebooks which is also how we came to know of it.

The speciality of Bún Chả Hàng Mành is its Bún Chả, a nothern Vietnamese specialty. Don’t worry if there are no tables and seats left in the space at street level. The seating capacity extends a few floors up. We had to walk all the way to the fourth floor before we got a table as the second and third floors were packed to the brim.

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Spring rolls, known as Nem, being deep fried by the side of the road. As this lady was tending to the spring rolls, she was also conveniently putting some into her own mouth every once in awhile. Eating on the job – I love it.

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Set on each table are the bún (vermicelli noodles), the herbs, freshly chopped red chillies and minced garlic, and thin slices of pickled cucumber. Ah, what an attractive picture this makes with its tantalising mix of red, yellow, green and white. I loved the fact that you could take as much as you wanted of all these items!

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Bún Chả, the main star of the show soon appears in all its smoky-flavoured, succulent glory. The slices of pork belly have been grilled over charcoal to render it with crunchy black edges (let’s forget about carcinogens for the moment) and the pork patties are enveloped in lá lốt leaves (also known as Lolot) which are often used as a flavouring wrap for grilling meats. An empty bowl was given to each of us for us to put the bún, and other condiments in together with the bún chả and eat from there.
 
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Of course, we couldn’t go away without also eating the Nem. Fried to golden perfection and crunchy to the bite, these contain a mix of cellophane noodles, wood fungus and minced pork. And that’s one more guilty pleasure to add to the list.

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Bún Chả is a must-try in Hanoi and I hope I can find this dish in Hong Kong to savour it again. Our meal which comprised two bowls of Bún Chả and one portion of Nem cost us VND180,000 (approx USD9).

1 Hang Manh, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi
Tel: + 84 4 3828 5022

April 19, 2012
by DSD
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Seasons of Hanoi

We had just returned to Hanoi from a long bus ride that started off in Halong Bay, and we were to take an overnight train to Sapa that very night. After a few days of crappy food on the boat in Halong Bay, we decided we wanted to have something good before we boarded our train.

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A blend of East and West interiors

Seasons of Hanoi is a fine dining restaurant serving Vietnamese cuisine. Its interiors in creamy earth tones are of a tasteful blend of traditional Vietnamese (almost veering towards Chinese if you ask me if you look at the chairs) and Western influences.

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Lime juice to awaken a tired traveller's mind and palate

Nothing like a glass of freshly squeezed lime juice for a pick-me-up!

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Anything with a nice smoky flavour is good!

The grilled chicken had a nice smoky flavour and the meat was very tender too. This dish was a winner.

 

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A mixture of lime and spice and all things nice!

These cubes of tofu stir-fried in a lime and chilli sauce were tasty with its nice mix of spiciness and zestiness. Yes, we were trying to be healthy in ordering it!

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OK, I'll be a good girl and eat my greens

The sweet potato leaves stir-fried in minced garlic was a no-frills, hearty dish that satisfied our need for some greens.

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Grilled shrimp paste wrapped round sugar cane

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So many ways to use a coconut!

Seasons of Hanoi’s food was tasty and the service was very good and prompt, and I’d recommend this place if you are not inclined to sitting by the road side on small stools to sample Vietnamese food. This meal came up to about USD22 in total, an amount which is very affordable for most tourists.

95B Quan Thanh, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi
Tel: +84 4 38435444

April 16, 2012
by DSD
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Hanoi Cooking Centre

My friend, N, and I didn’t have much of an agenda for Hanoi. We only knew that we were going to have meals in Bobby Chinn (wasn’t impressed by the way) and La Badiane and that we were going to walk around the Old Quarter on one of the days we were going to spend in Hanoi. The first hotel we stayed in was near the West Lake area and we spent our first day walking around the area and observing the everyday lives of the locals. We were just wandering around and walking to nowhere in particular when we stumbled upon the Hanoi Cooking Centre.

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The entrance of the Hanoi Cooking Centre

We went in to have a look and realised it was a cooking school cum cafe. We had nothing on our agenda the next day so we decided to sign up for a cooking class (USD 55) that would last for about four to five hours. It helps that N and I are both foodies and were keen on learning how to cook!

 
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Local produce on sale in Chau Long Market

We took the afternoon class and were told to turn up at 2pm where we first taken to Chau Long Market just round the corner by one of the staff. He gave us an introduction to the local produce and it was also at that market that I saw roasted dog for the first time. We were told that dog meat is the most expensive compared to chicken, beef and pork. The market had quietened down by the time we went there, as most of the action takes place in the morning. So those who want to catch a glimpse of the bustling market, you’d do better to sign up for the morning class.

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Recipes of the dishes you cook are given to you

If you are the first ones signed up for that particular  session, you get to decide what the class makes. There are five different menus to choose from, each comprising four or five types of dishes. A vegetarian menu is included as one of the five. We opted for the menu “Recipes from Ha Noi & the North”.

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Ingredients for the banana flower salad

 The ingredients for all the dishes are all prepared for you in advance to save time. Classes are conducted in English, and our instructor, Hung, a native Hanoian, demonstrated to us how to prepare the dishes before we dived in and got our hands dirty.

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There's me cooking - the apron is for you to keep after the class. A nice souvenir to have!

 

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The appetiser and main dishes we prepared.

Clockwise from top left: Bean sprouts, pineapple and cucumber tossed in vinegar dressing; caramalised pork stew; deep fried seafood spring rolls; banana flower salad with bean sprouts, pork strips and peanuts. Both salads were great as starters to whet the appetite, while the deep fried seafood spring rolls were nice and crunchy to the bite. The caramalised pork stew, after having been placed in the oven to bake for 45 min, was a delight to eat with rice with its melding of caramalised sugar, fish sauce, and garlic.

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Dessert

Our dessert was made from crushed black sesame seeds and peanuts cooked in coconut cream and sugar. I’m not a huge fan of coconut milk so I didn’t really like the dessert.

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Sitting down to enjoy the food of our labour

 After all the hard work – OK, it wasn’t really THAT hard - we adjourned to the dining area to enjoy the meal we had prepared. The table was already set nicely for us and the staff brought our food up. The meal also comes with a glass of wine each but N and I chose not to have any and chose to go with lime (which locals call lemon) juice instead. I have to say that the food we prepared was delicious and the dishes were easy enough to prepare by yourself at home. Unfortunately I had lost my recipes when my bag got slit by pickpockets later that night! I’ll have to get N to scan me her copy. I enjoyed the experience at Hanoi Cooking Centre as it was very professionally run and the food and service were good.

44 Chau Long Street
Ba Dinh District, Ha Noi
Tel: +84 4 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com

April 14, 2012
by DSD
2 Comments

Vietnam

“Oh my god, how am I supposed to cross the road and not get myself killed in the process?” Well, that thought was whirling in my mind when I first arrived in Hanoi. There doesn’t seem to be any order in the way motorcycles and cars weave through the streets and how pedestrians cross the street. Traffic lights that are spoilt remain unfixed as there is no need to fix them anyway. Horns blare from motorcycles and cars all the time and there’s a hardly a quiet moment in this city. But after awhile, I got the hang of it. Basically just step out of the pavement and walk straight on without hesitating or reversing your step. The cars and motorcycles will just weave round you to avoid taking the life out of you. Welcome to Vietnam.

So what else did I think about Vietnam? It’s a little gritty, raw at the edges and both interesting and frustrating at the same time when travelling there. As it’s still a developing country, the people are noticeably less well-off compared to more developed nations, but at least I still see children laughing and playing on the streets. But because people are poorer, there is more petty crime like pickpocketing. As a tourist, it is stressful having to always be vigilant about one’s belongings. I must have a look that says “Rob me!” because my bag got slit at the Dong Xuan Night Market and then a week later my backpack’s top flap was zipped open. The latter time, I found out in time before the woman could take anything and she even had the nerve to look pissed off at me and say something nasty to me in Vietnamese! Thankfully both times I didn’t lose anything valuable.

Due to all the “development” that’s going on, Hanoi has become so polluted. I felt that the air pollution was worse than HK (and that’s saying a lot) and as I looked around, people didn’t bother about things like recycling or throwing rubbish away properly. Parents have their children pee openly in the streets and the water in the lakes in Hanoi are so dirty. Even Halong Bay, a UNESCO site, has a permanent oil slick and rubbish floating around. I definitely didn’t want to jump in for a swim.

Travelling in Vietnam can also be a real test of patience. So often we had people telling us something would take only “10 minutes”. But we were soon to realise that could be anything from 30–90 minutes or maybe more! Anyway, we learnt to take it in our stride as getting frustrated wouldn’t help matters. Coming from Singapore and HK, I think most places will pale in comparison in terms of efficiency. So really, the thing is just to adopt the “Just chill” mentality when you’re there.

OK, there were stuff I liked about Vietnam too. Of course, there was the food! Goodness, there’s food everywhere. It’s pretty amazing how there’s so much street food around, with the small stalls at the side of the roads and people carrying baskets of fruits along the streets looking for customers. I was amused to see how the locals sat on plastic stools at low plastic tables along the streets eating heartily away. I have never seen a country with more plastic stools and tables! My friend and I really enjoyed the food we had, to the extent that I’ve put on weight after the trip! That just means a lot more hiking to burn off all the calories.

I liked that there are still many independent shops and only a small presence of supermarket chains, fast food restaurants and convenience stores. I was glad to see very few McDonald’s outlets and KFCs and there were no  7-Eleven stores at all. There was no Starbucks at all – hurray for the Vietnamese coffee trade!

In Halong Bay and up north in Sapa, we saw more of the natural terrain and geography that northern Vietnam had to offer. Halong Bay is beautiful, just a pity about the polluted waters and the permanent fog brought on by the pollution. Sapa, up in the mountains, is beautiful with its rolling peaks, rice terraces and waterfalls.

Overall, it was a good trip and an eye-opener for me despite some hiccups. More about specific places my friend and I went to in entries to come. And by the way, the blog header image is part of a photo I snapped in Hanoi.